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(Photo by Michael Maes)
It's inevitable. If you offer shelter, they will come. All of them. The in-laws. The children. The out-of-town empty nesters. The nephews and nieces. Your brother and his dog, Spike. And that very strange cousin of yours - fourth-removed on your Uncle Harry's side - who always seems to show up without being invited. It is, after all, the holidays right? So you can feed them on the home front for a few nights, but eventually they're going to start asking questions, aren't they? Leading questions like, "So do you know of any good new restaurants that opened up around here?" Or "I heard that Frontera guy has a new place downtown …" Or "Boy, I could really go for a nice burger tonight." Our guess is that they'll probably want something innovative. Something hip. Something new. Something like our picks for the best new restaurants of 2009.
Evanston
Edzo's Burger Shop
While the rest of the fast-food world seems intent on gussying up their burgers beyond recognition - do we really need another Santa Fe burger? - owner Eddie Lakin (the nickname Edzo is a remnant from grade school) has kept his burgers relatively simple (fresh ground Chuck, either slapped onto a griddle for extra sizzle or char-grilled like you do in the backyard) and decided to get inventive with his French fry list instead. Very inventive. Although we haven't officially counted, we assume he's got the largest selection of fries on the North Shore. You can order them crazy (chili, cheese, chopped onion), Taylor Street-style (dipped in Italian beef juice and ladled with a rainbow mix of sweet peppers and giardiniera) or truffled (sprinkled with parmesan cheese and truffle salt). There are five other options to choose from with a couple constants running throughout. They're all hand-cut, all served crispy and all, in our opinion, just plain fun to graze on. 1571 Sherman Ave., Evanston, 847/864-3396
Wilmette
Olive Oil
Truth be told, on the right night, with the right patrons in the seats and all those windows overlooking 12th Street, Olive Oil in Wilmette glows like an Edward Hopper print. It's Nighthawks - suburban style. But the menu is leagues away from your typical diner fare. It's a mix of Italian, Greek, French and Israeli cuisines that offers one of our favorite shawarmas in town. Chunks of fresh chicken seasoned with a mélange of seasonings imported from Israel are hand-packed onto a spit and then carved into your choice of a pita or taboon roll. We prefer the latter stuffed with the house's Israeli salad and smeared with hummus and tahini. The restaurant's complimentary tray of appetizers - cumin carrots, a honeyed sesame-seed slaw, red beets and more - is worth the trip alone. 1154 Central Ave., Wilmette, 847/256-1002
Winnetka
Avli Estiatorio
Given Louis Alexakis' downright royal food pedigree - former owner of Ouzeri in Lincoln Park; son-in-law to Gus Couchell, owner of The Greek Islands - we knew he'd be able to bake a moussaka and grill octopus (above) worthy of YiaYia's table. But we had no idea he'd compile the most intriguing new wine list of the year. A general rule of thumb? The more difficult to pronounce the better. A bottle of Domaine Skouras moscofilero, a crisp citrusy varietal from the Peloponnese, is all orange peel and citrus fruit, perfect for Pinot Grigio lovers. And Alexakis' stunning Domaine Sigalas Vin Santo (mostly sun-dried assyrtiko grapes that are aged in oak barrels for at least two years) is a liquid dessert worthy of the house's great pastry list. One sip of the stuff and you'll realize, much to your surprise, that phrase "good Greek wine" is no longer an oxymoron on the North Shore. 566 Chestnut St., Winnetka, 847/446-9300
Highland Park
Abigail's Bistro
Chef Michael Paulsen has been a man of his word. Back in June, he stressed to us how he was fully committed to creating a constantly changing menu at his new restaurant, Abigail's American Bistro. The words he used, if we recall, were "My intent is to change the menu frequently. Really frequently." The proof? Since summer, he's changed his crostini appetizer - an Abigail's signature - almost every month, switching from English pea to fava bean and cannelloni. By the time you read this, he'll probably be topping them with Jerusalem artichokes or Peruvian potatoes. So act fast; it's definitely a limited-time offer. 493 Roger Williams Ave., Highland Park, 847/849-1009
Highwood
Clucker's
We have to hand it to Deb and Reed Merdinger; they certainly know how to recycle. Their marquee attraction will always be their charcoal-fired chicken (antibiotic-free birds that are rubbed with a bouquet of spices, glazed with orange, lime and pineapple juices and roasted for an hour and fifteen minutes on a rotisserie spit over smoky full-lump charcoal). But those same birds are used for an impressive array of sides and entrées, 11 in total including chicken chili, chicken enchiladas and a delicious salad piled to the rafters with chicken, bacon, tomatoes, chopped egg, avocado, Swiss cheese under a blanket of sweet poppy seed dressing. Gives new meaning to the phrase, "waste not, want not." 760 Sheridan Road, Highwood, 847/432-2582
Lake Bluff
inovasi
Much has been made, including in these very pages, of the inventive items flowing from chef John des Rosiers' kitchen. But less attention has been paid to what he's doing at the bar. If you liked des Rosiers' gastronomic homage to Jackson Pollock - a walleye entrée "painted" with four sauces that's served on canvas - may we suggest you sample his liquid nod to Bob Marley (a double-shot of rum mixed with rosemary, thyme and a "smoked" mango puree). Or better yet, the inovasi Vesper: a local version of the classic James Bond martini that leans on North Shore Vodka, North Shore Gin and a touch of Lillet Blanc. The twist? It's stirred not shaken. 28 E. Center Ave., Lake Bluff, 847/295-1000
Northbrook
The Claim Company
Don't get us wrong. We were more than happy to reacquaint ourselves with our old friend, the Motherlode - a 10-ounce burger slathered with your choice of 10 different toppings, seven cheeses and two sauces for the flat price of $9.99 - but I guess we forgot the simple pleasure of saddling up to a well-stocked salad bar after a long day at the mall. Kudos to The Claim Company, not just for offering 16 different salad dressings, but for taking the time to think about texture (won ton sticks and fried onions), exotic accouterments (wasabi peas and jicama) and a nifty little muffin bar that's worth saving a few calories for. 2000 Northbrook Court, Northbrook, 847/291-9111
Northfield
The Happ Bar & Grille
Fine dining temples come and go. French bistros rise and fade. Grilles flare and fizzle. But whatever the Nietos touch seems to have an indefinite shelf life. Their secret? Service with a smile. With four radically different restaurant concepts - Carlos', Café Central, the Freehling Room at Ravinia and now The Happ - you'd think their hospitality would have stretched thin by now. But it hasn't. One step inside their new family-friendly spot and you'll feel like one of the family. It's one the reasons we keep coming back. A few others? The Happ's stellar pizzas and a great marbled-rye Patty melt laced with 1000-island dressing. 305 Happ Road, Northfield, 847/784-9200
Lincolnshire
Sullivan's
Technically, the Lincolnshire outpost of Sullivan's steakhouse opened at the close of 2008, but we're just as drawn to their wet-aged steaks, specialty martinis and library-like décor then as we are now. But what's improved over the last year is Sullivan's jazz program, which runs five nights a week, Tuesdays-Saturdays. Performers change on a regular basis, but you can always expect two- or three-piece sets, which are accompanied on Thursdays (and Sundays) by the steakhouse's special "Swingin' at Sully's" promotion, which offers select martinis, some red and white wines and bar entrées for only $5. We happen to think it's a great way to stay warm on a chilly December evening. 250 Marriott Drive, Lincolnshire, 847/883-0311
When You Dish Upon a Star
As it turns out, three of the most impressive new restaurants in Chicago didn't only wow us with their food, they made us see stars as well. A look at three prominent chefs and their newest, tastiest creations.
Mercadito
Guess what? As much as we hate to admit it, they were right. All those cocky, foodier-than-thou Manhattan snobs weren't exaggerating: Nobody assembles a more gleefully beguiling taco menu than chef Patricio Sandoval. After plowing through all 11 of his taco offerings - from sweet Modelo-battered mahi-mahi tacos with Mexican coleslaw to a homemade chorizo offering gilded with Manchego cheese and tomato-árbol salsa - we know why his Mercadito taquerias are such a hit in New York. Every mole has the depth of a French mother sauce and the look of the place is exotic and sexy - pure escapism. There are flaming cocktails, an inviting bar and the most interesting chandeliers of the year: playful rope-like fixtures that look like they belong on a pirate ship. It's a reminder that, once in a while, fun and fine food can coexist in perfect harmony. Can't-Miss Taco: the garlicky tilapia taco with chile poblanos and a tomatillo sauce. 108 W. Kinzie St., Chicago, 312/329-9555
Terzo Piano
Want the bad news or the good news first? Let's start with the bitters: Come December, we're predicting there's going to be some serious traffic at Tony Mantuano's new lunch-focused spot in the Modern Wing of the Art Institute. With all those white-resin table tops and the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Michigan Avenue and Millennium Park, each and every snowfall is going to be an event to behold. The good news? The food is more than worth the wait. Instead of importing his ingredients from the four corners of Italy, Mantuano has managed to adapt local Midwestern products into New World Italian delicacies: La Quercia prosciutto platters, an olive oil-whipped whitefish spread (above) and a kale-and-bacon frittata. Give it a look; it's a modern masterpiece. Can't-Miss Dessert: The almond financier with blueberry-thyme compote and crème fraiche sorbet was a summer favorite of ours. Come winter look for Mantuano's chocolate version. 159 E. Monroe St., Chicago, 312/443-8650
Xoco
The lines are long. (We swear we saw a pregnant woman just about go into labor waiting to order a plate of pork belly vermicelli one Saturday afternoon.) The prices can be a bit steep. And the distance between you and your neighbor is … well … intimate, but all is forgiven once you tear into Top Chef Master Rick Bayless' homage to Mexican street food. Our recommendation is to skip over the griddled panini-like tortas and load up on the wood-fired mini submarines. The suckling pig torta with achiote, black beans and habanero salsa is a house specialty (above) and the carnitas and black bean option is deliciously moated in a spicy tomato broth. It's the smallest details that linger: the perfect acidity of the house's cava vinaigrette over our salad, the fresh tortilla chips and the slight crunch of the churros. Masterful, indeed. Can't-Miss Torta: Bayless' take on a Philly cheese steak matches tufts of Tallgrass short rib with sweet caramelized onion, Jack cheese, black beans and pickled jalapeños. 449 Clark St., Chicago, 312/334-3688
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