Men grow cold

As girls grow old,

And we all lose our charms in the end.

But square-cut or pear-shaped,

These rocks don't lose their shape.

Diamonds are a girl's best friend.

No one could flaunt the fairy tale of a strapless pink gown and cascades of diamonds quite like Marilyn, slinking through this hit tune in the 1953 classic Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.

But few starlets ever wince at basking in the glow of costly gems. Vegan Natalie Portman sports "ethical diamonds" mined from beyond the world's war zones. Marisa Tomei lugged 56 carats worth of sapphires and diamonds on her 1941 estate bracelet at the Oscars and Amy Adams adorned her low-cut red dress with a tutti frutti collar necklace of emeralds, rubies and sapphires.

When the stars pour on the splendor, refracted glory infects the rest of us with the symptoms of copy-cat blues. The standard cure recommends an afternoon of shopping therapy, preferably in a setting boasting exquisite architecture. Ultra Diamonds, located in the landmark former C.D. Peacock store on State Street, delivers on dreams of glamour with affordable prices and artistic designs.

"What's new and hot is what's fun and different," says Ultra Diamonds vice president Jane Gilmer, pulling out a bangle bracelet splashed with diamonds that's priced at $899. "Twenty-five-year-olds want as many bangles as your wrist can hold," she advises, for the mix-and-match gift shopper.

But hot covers all ages and all price ranges, with diamonds in soft champagne and café tones, diamonds studding long gold chains and diamonds in enormous hoop earrings to reclaim the exotic Jezebel in us all. The hoops dress up jeans, a tunic and boots or lighten up business attire. Artsy new renditions of retro styles move easily from the office to the grocery store to the opera.

Everyday discounts and diverse designers identified with their own unique collections figure big in the formula at Ultra Diamonds. Designer Jennifer Phelps Montgomery offers grace and informality with cognac and chocolate diamonds set in rose-colored gold. Peter Lam reinterprets Art Deco motifs in diamond pendants, rings and bracelets that interweave the gems with ropes of white and yellow gold. Arco BaLeno offers sleek creations with contemporary panache.

Diamonds traditionally come from India and Africa but extensive explorations in Canada since the late 1980s have opened up diamond sources beneath the tundra of our northern neighbor, and Ultra Diamonds has emerged as one of the largest sellers of Canadian diamonds.

The business has more than 150 locations nationwide. But only the flagship store on State Street offers the historic setting of C.D. Peacock, restored to the glory of the richly ornamental paneled ceiling after the roof partially collapsed in August 2008. The original marble columns and the glow of the restored Tiffany chandeliers grace the timeless interior.

Ultra Diamonds moved into the historic space in the Palmer House 10 years ago while C. D. Peacock continues its legacy in upscale stores on North Michigan Avenue and in posh suburban malls.

At Ultra Diamonds, constellations of engagement rings - a cornerstone at any jewelry store - range from single-stone classics to flowery Victorian designs with cascades of smaller stones wrapping the central gem. "The average engagement ring cost $4,000 to $5,000," says Gilmer. And that can fetch about a 1.5 carat diamond.

"We have the large diamonds, the solitaire where you're spending the ranch," laughs Jillian Rebol, State Street store manager. A ring with a 4-carat stone can cost more than $30,000.

"Most brides are demanding a 1-carat stone so these guys need to be prepared," Gilmer says.

And don't forget these guys. Men's jewelry has bounded past the biker look that left the rest of the male population making do with a wristwatch and, possibly, a ring. Chains, pendants and bracelets - with muscular designs and a masculine looks of titanium, tungsten steel or stainless steel - pair easily with gems, sports jackets and sweaters. Ultra Diamonds offers precious and semi-precious stones, with custom settings and gem alternatives such as trendy Venetian glass pendants.

Yet nothing quite matches the real thing.

Diamonds first attracted the ancients thousands of years ago when they were valued as talismans to ward off evil and secure safety in battle. The Greeks bestowed the name, derived from the term "adamus" for indestructible. The mystical magic of the gems lingered into the early Middle Ages when Saint Hildegard reputedly healed wounds and illnesses by clutching the stones while bestowing a blessing. The allure of fashion and treasure soon trumped the myths, though, and wealthy gentry encrusted clothing and jewelry with diamonds or other gems.

Old World status symbols were already prized on the frontier when Elijah Peacock opened his first jewelry store in Chicago in 1837, the same year the burgeoning town of 4,000 incorporated as a city.

Elijah's son Charles Daniel later took over the business that became C. D. Peacock and later opened in the Palmer House. The famous brass peacocks on the doors and clock of the State Street store remain legends that Chicagoans often associate with an heirloom piece of jewelry - and hopes of a new holiday surprise to go with it.